It seems like every time we post a tutorial about the use of external flash we receive a bunch of comments from photographers who insist on shooting with available light—despite the fact that this approach doesn't always deliver the best possible results in certain situations.
Most photographers reach for a wide-angle lens when shooting nature and landscape photos. But if you want your images to stand out from the rest, it’s time to give your telephoto lens a try.
What if you were told you there is a much better way to focus, and pros use it all the time for faster, more precise subject acquisition? If we just grabbed your attention, read on to see how it's done.
Dodging and burning is a traditional darkroom technique that can be used with great success using software in today’s digital era. These easy-to use tools enable you to selectively adjust different areas of an image to arrive at a balanced exposure.
Landscape photography involves several challenges, not the least of which is arriving at a correct exposure. That’s because nature scenes, especially those shot with a wide-angle lens, may include a very wide range of tones from bright highlights to deep shadows, and skies that often fall somewhere in between.
If you're looking for a way to optimize the range of focus throughout an image the tutorial below explains the best way to get the job done, and it works for just about any type of photos you make. We refer to this technique as "bracket and stack it" and it's not difficult to do.
We've all been told to avoid shooting on bright sunny days or when the sun is high in the sky because contrasty light is the enemy of great photos. While there's some truth to this rule, harsh conditions also present opportunities for capturing great images.
Have you ever been disappointed by your early-evening cityscape photos because they didn’t accurately capture the magic of Blue Hour? That’s actually a common occurrence, and in the video below you’ll learn how to correct the problem by making city lights glow with a simple HDR technique.
We’re always on the lookout for unique techniques that enable you to capture artistic images that look different from others, and help you develop a style all your own. Today we have a good one that covers all three goals through the use of intentional camera movement (ICM).
Most photographers are familiar with the Exposure Triangle that consists of Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO—the three camera settings that combine to arrive at a “correct exposure.” Of course what’s perceived as “correct” is in the eye of the beholder, as the exposure you use depends upon the mood you intend to convey.
Today we're featuring a two-minute tutorial that that will enable you to edit outdoor photographs faster than ever before while achieving outstanding results. It's all about employing Lightroom's often-overlooked Amount slider for getting the job done swiftly with precision, as compared to methods you've likely tried in the past.
Last month we posted a popular tutorial explaining a simple fix for what one pro calls “a huge problem when using any of Lightroom’s Healing tools in tandem with masking. Todays lesson, designed primarily for beginners, is an overview of how these tools work to eliminate unwanted artifacts and other distractions in your photos.
As one of our favorite pros insists, “Lightroom’s histogram is one of the most important things to understand in photography.” If you’re new to this powerful tool, the beginners guide below from our friends at The Phlog Photography will get you up to speed in barely eight minutes.
As the name suggests, Lightroom’s Targeted Adjustment Tool enables you to “target” and adjust certain portions of a photo without affecting other parts of the image. Unfortunately, this powerful easy-to-use tool is unfamiliar to many photographers.
Editing one’s images isn’t exactly an odious task, but many photographers, prefer to finish the job with a minimum of fuss so they get back to doing what they enjoy most—shooting photographs.