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Crash Course A Short Lesson In Wildlife Photography
By Rick Sammon March, 2001
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Getting an animal’s eyes in sharp focus is one of
the most important elements in wildlife photography. Being
honest about where a picture was taken is important, too.
This tiger was photographed in captivity at Wild Eyes
Animal Park in Montana. (Canon EOS 1V, Canon 100-400mm
IS lens at 400mm, Kodak Portra 400 VC color print film.)
Photos © 2000, Rick Sammon, All Rights Reserved
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Imagine this: You show up
for a wildlife photography shoot in Africa. An expert guide with a Land
Rover outfitted especially for photography meets you. Camera mounts
are set securely in place on the doors of the vehicle. Several padded,
easy-open cases for long lenses are mounted inside the vehicle. Beanbags
are handy for supporting cameras and lenses in a hurry. You have plenty
of film. Perhaps best of all, you have three months to shoot!
A dream come true? It sure
did, for National Geographic photographer Chris Johns, one of the world’s
premier wildlife photographers. That’s how he traveled while shooting
his cheetah story for National Geographic (I know because I saw a television
program on his adventures).
Well, I don’t know
about you, but I don’t have all the aforementioned luxuries. However,
I still get good wildlife pictures. And you can, too, by following a
few basic wildlife photo tips.
Pack the right gear. The
Boy Scouts of America follow the motto, "Be Pre-pared." That’s
good advice for wildlife photographers--who must be prepared for a wide
variety of photo ops.
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Wildlife photographers often face interesting and challenging
situations. Having this baby bear crawl up my leg at Wild
Eyes Animal Park was a bit unnerving…but not to the point
where I forgot to take a picture. (Canon EOS 1V, Canon 17-35mm
zoom at 17mm, Kodak Portra 400 VC color print film.)
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Choose your lenses carefully.
For my animal portraits, my basic lenses are my 70-200mm zoom and
100-400mm zoom. When an animal is far away, I use a 1.4x tele-converter
on my 100-400mm zoom, which when set at 400mm gives me an effective focal
length of 560mm. For pictures of animals in their habitats, I use my 17-35mm
zoom--when I can get fairly close. If not, I use my 70-200mm zoom.
Don’t forget filters.
I use a polarizing filter to darken the sky and to reduce reflections
on water. I use a warming filter to give my pictures deeper shades of
red, orange, and yellow, a skylight filter to protect the front element
of my lens, and a graduated filter to darken the sky when it’s much
brighter than the land in my pictures.
Film. Pack way more
than you think you’ll need. I use fast film for low light and fast
action shooting. Lately, I’ve been using ISO 200 film pushed one
and two stops. For bright-light shooting, I use ISO 100 film, which produces
nice enlargements with no noticeable grain.
Batteries. Here, too,
bring more than you think you’ll need. Autofocus lenses and motor
drives, essential for wildlife photography, use up battery power fast.
Don’t be caught without power. I pack a lot of batteries, and I’m
glad my wife is sometimes along to carry them (as well as all my back-up
gear: extra lenses, camera bodies, etc.).
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Animal "kills" are a part of wildlife photography. In fact,
recording them on film--still and movie--is considered lucky
for wildlife photographers. If you feel sorry for the baby
giraffe in this picture, which is being eaten by a lion,
just think about the lion’s cubs. They must eat, too.
It’s the circle of life. I took this picture in Botswana,
Africa. (Canon EOS 1V, Canon 100-400mm IS lens at 400 with
1.4x tele-converter (effective focal length of 560mm), Kodak
Elite Chrome Extra Color 100 film.) |
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Pack a flash. I never
go out to photograph animals without my flash and a flash extender, which,
you guessed it, extends the range of the flash. Flash extenders attach
to flash heads with touch fasteners, so you can attach them and remove
them quickly. You’ll find them invaluable when an animal is in the
shade and when you want to add some sparkle to an animal’s eyes.
Tote a tripod. Sure
it’s no fun to lug around a tripod. But you’ll be so happy
you did when you need it in a low-light situation, when conditions dictate
using a slow shutter speed. A monopod is a good second choice for a camera
support. And if you will be shooting from a car, pack some socks before
you leave home and fill ’em up with beans on site for custom-made
beanbag supports. Me? I tote a tripod and a monopod, as well as a pair
of socks!
Pack it in. The bag
you pack your gear in is important, too. You want your gear protected,
and you want quick access to it. I usually use a camera backpack, with
a built-in rain hood. But that’s just what I like. Before you choose
a camera pack or packs, envision your shooting situations--from a vehicle,
on foot, over rough or smoother terrain, etc.--and choose one that meets
your needs and budget.
Work with a guide.
If you want to maximize your time in the field, that is, find animals
fast, then you must work with someone who knows the territory. Go it alone
and you could spend many hours or days looking for wildlife. Sure, a guide
will cost extra money, but in my 20 years of shooting, I’ve come
to realize that it’s a very good investment in my pictures.
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Backgrounds can make or break a wildlife picture. To blur
the background, as I did for this picture of a toucan, I
used a long telephoto lens set at a wide aperture. To get
a sharper background, use a wider angle lens and a smaller
aperture. (Canon EOS 1N, Canon 300mm IS lens at f/4, Kodak
Elite Chrome Extra Color 100 film. Frame added with Extensis
PhotoFrame 2.0.) |
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Study your subject. Each
species of animal has its own habits, and lives in a select habitat. If
you know where to look and what to look for, you’ll have a better
chance of getting a behavioral photograph--a picture in which the animal
is doing something that is part of its life. Find out as much as you can
about the wildlife you’ll be photographing. There is a lot of information
on the web. Simply use a search engine like www.google.com
and type in the animal you want to photograph. Hundreds of listings will
appear on your monitor in a few minutes.
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One of the most important accessories in wildlife photography
is a flash with a flash extender. Without the aid of my
flash, this jaguar, photographed in the Belize Zoo, would
have been nearly totally obscured by the shadows in the
rain forest. (Canon EOS 1N, Canon 300mm IS lens, Kodak Elite
Chrome Extra Color 100 film.) |
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Know The Basics
If you are new to wildlife photography, there are a few basic shooting
techniques you should know.
For animal portraits, use long lenses set at wide apertures to
blur the background.
Use a fast shutter speed (1/500 of a sec or faster) to "freeze"
action; use a slow shutter speed (1/30 of a sec or slower) to blur motion.
Shoot in the early morning and late afternoon, when you get more
colorful pictures, as well as more animal predation.
Focus on the animal’s eyes. Miss that focus and you miss
the shot.
Take lots of pictures of the same subject. Just like people, an
animal’s expression can change in an instant. Animals also blink.
If you shoot several frames in rapid succession, you’ll get a flattering
picture of your subject.
Practice at home. Great
wildlife photo opportunities come and go in an instant. That’s why
you must be ready to shoot on demand--in a few seconds. If you practice
all your photographic techniques at home, perhaps at the local zoo or
wildlife park, you’ll get a much higher percentage of good pictures
in the field than if you had just relaxed at home and looked at great
wildlife pictures, which actually is a good idea, too. No, I don’t
mean relax! I mean look at wildlife pictures and think about how you could
take those kinds of pictures, or perhaps even improve upon them.
One final tip: Respect the animals you photograph, as well as their
habitats, many of which are dwindling.
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Driving along a country road in Lombok, Indonesia, I passed
this mother monkey holding her child. Because I had my camera
ready for action, I got one of my favorite wildlife pictures.
Message: Always be prepared to shoot! (Canon EOS 1N, Canon
70-200mm lens at 200mm, Kodak Elite Chrome Extra Color 100
film.) |
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And, this one is kind of simple,
but all too true: you must go to someplace with great wildlife for great
wildlife pictures. My favorite spots are Galapagos and Africa.
Rick Sammon is the host
of the Photography Workshop series on the Do It Yourself Network and guest
host of the Canon Photo Safari on ESPN.
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