Are you struggling to capture consistently sharp images in the camera without resorting to post processing? If so, the video below from the Photo Genius YouTube channel will explain how to solve most common focusing problems in barely 10 minutes.
In may be a new year, but it's still "Tutorial Tuesday" at Park Cameras—a leading retailer in the UK that posts weekly photography lessons for their customers and the rest of us who want to improve our skills. Today's episode is all about employing exposure bracketing in the conventional way, as well as for other tasks you may not have used it for in the past.
Most photographers love upgrading their gear, especially when the purchase is a new camera. The temptation is to charge the battery, mount a lens, and head out the door for a test spin, but there are a few things you should do first if you want to take advantage of everything your new toy can do.
Camera settings are among the most democratic aspects of photography, in that the optimum choices are available for shooters of all skill levels. It's simply a matter of changing the defaults and configuring the camera in a way that best suits your specific style of photography.
One specification that's important to many photographers when shopping for a new camera is the number of focus points available. But do you really know how to choose the best focus point(s) at your disposal when shooting different types of images? If not, read on.
Most photographers understand that the f/stop they choose is an important component of arriving at a correct exposure. But this setting affects other attributes of a photo that novices
If landscape photography is a primary areas of interest, you're likely familiar with the conventional "wisdom" that f/11 is the optimum aperture to use when shooting this genre of imagery. But many accomplished pros consider this "rule" nothing more than a useless myth, and the tutorial below explains why.
Panasonic just released the Lumix G9II mirrorless digital camera, and Shutterbug had a chance to thoroughly test an early sample. Featuring a new 25.2-megapixel Live MOS sensor and a Leica Monochrome Photo Style option, the latest Micro 4/3 might be the best new camera of 2023.
A solid understanding of key camera settings is essential if you're serious about shooting impressive photographs instead of mere snapshots, and one of the most important considerations is whether to use the Raw file format or shoot Jpegs. As you'll see in the video below, the decision you make depends up a variety of factors—including the specific way you intend to use the images you make.
If you're considering making the switch from a crop-sensor camera to full-frame model we urge you carefully consider the key points of today's tutorial before pulling the trigger—especially if you're motivated by achieving images with less noise while shooting under low light with high ISO settings. That's because despite conventional wisdom the determining factors are more involved than you think.
There are numerous reasons for poorly exposed photos when shooting in the field under difficult lighting conditions, including harsh light, dark foregrounds, and bright washed-out skies to name a few. When you're faced with challenges like these, photos often turn out to be a compete mess.
Leica just introduced the Leica Q3, the third generation Q, and Shutterbug was able to spend a fortnight with a production sample. Compared to its predecessor, nearly every major specification and feature has been enhanced—significantly. Not to tip our hand, but the Leica Q3 appears to be…
Many photographers set their camera for Auto White Balance and never modify the setting regardless of the subject at hand. If that sounds like you it may explain why the colors in your photos don't accurately convey the colors in a scene.
Let's say you've tried all the conventional advice for capturing sharp photos, and some of your images are still soft. You use a tripod, choose the right aperture, shutter speed, and focus area, yet nothing seems to work.
Today’s quick tutorial is a throwback to the days before electronic cameras, without autofocus, built-in meters, and other modern conveniences. The Sunny 16 method for determining proper exposure was one of the easiest “rules” back then, and it can bail you out of a jam today when using a full-featured camera.