Ricoh just announced two new models in their popular GR lineup of streetwise cameras. The new GR III HDF and GR IIIx HDF compacts feature a Highlight Diffusion Filter shooting mode that diffuses highlights, adding a softened halo effect to point sources of light and an overall soft blur to the edges of other highlight areas. Other enhancements include…
There's a lot of hype about the "superiority" of full-frame cameras these days, and it's important to separate the marketing chatter from the difference in sensor size as pertains to your particular style of photography. If you're thinking about "stepping up" we encourage you to watch this video before making the switch.
Featuring body-integrated image stabilization, a 40.2-megapixel back-illuminated X-Trans CMOS 5 HR sensor, and enhanced video capabilities, the new Fujifilm X100VI will be available in March 2024 at the MSRP of $1599 in black or silver colorways. "X100VI" is pronounced "X100 Six" as it's the sixth model in Fujifilm's popular X100 series which debuted at Photokina in 2010.
SJCAM, a leading manufacturer of action cameras spanning a wide array of price points, recently announced the SJ20, the world's first with dual-lens configuration. Optimized for lowlight performance, the SJ20 promises a host of advanced features including dual LCD touchscreens, waterproof protection down to 16 feet without a case, built-in 6-axis gyroscope, and 20-megapixel still image capture, in addition to 4K video.
We all know that photography is all about light, and even the best cameras make mistakes rendering what they "see"—yielding images that are either too bright or too dark. If, like most of us, you prefer nailing exposure in the camera (instead of fixing things in post), you've come to the right place.
Long Exposure Noise Reduction is very helpful feature available in most modern digital cameras, including interchangeable lens models and many full-featured compacts. But as you'll see in the following tutorial from the Photo Genius YouTube channel, leaving this setting turned on by default will hold you back in certain situations.
Yesterday we featured a primer on exposure bracketing, explaining how to get the light right by shooting three images of the same scene, and merging them during the editing process. Today you'll learn how nail exposure in the camera by using the oft-ignored histogram that you can set to appear on the rear LCD.
One of the easiest ways to get the best results from a camera is to configure it properly for your type of photography. In the video below you'll learn what one pro says are the "seven camera settings you should always change."
You’re hiking in the forest and stumble upon a friendly grizzly bear who’s seated comfortably on a fallen log. You left your big camera at home to lighten your load, and the anemic lens on your smartphone just won’t do the situation justice. Without having a real camera with you to document the scene, how can you answer, once and for all, that age-old question, “Do bears sit in the woods?”
Once photographers set up a new camera, they tend to use the same functions over and over again, without investigating other capabilities that can really make a difference. In the quick tutorial below you’ll be encouraged to give an overlooked feature a try, and we’re convinced that better images will be the result.
Here’s a fun cheap camera challenge. Can you take good photos with a $25 camera? That’s what swimwear photographer Anita Sadowska seeks to find out in the below video.
If you’re having trouble nailing exposure and ask a few friends for help, you’re likely to be told, “it’s time you mastered Manual mode.” While that’s certainly an option, there’s another (and often easier) way to consistently achieve perfectly exposed photos.
If you’re a regular visitor to this page you’ve no doubt invested in the best cameras and accessories you can afford. So how do you protect all this valuable gear from getting scratched, damaged, or broken? Read on.
Outdoor photographers often encounter lighting situations with such a wide range of tones that it’s difficult or impossible to capture a properly exposed image in just one shot. Under such conditions, if you expose for the highlights, shadows are crushed. Conversely, if you expose for the shadows, highlights are blown out.