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Wedding And Portraiture Lighting, Whats It All About
By Monte Zucker November, 2001
A quick glance at these photographs
and you may wonder what they all have in common. In a word: lighting.
Much has been written about
light and lighting equipment. Yet, I’ve found very little written about
what we’re trying to accomplish with lighting. Maybe, with a little more
discussion along these lines, lighting will not become such a mystery
to so many photographers.
Good lighting is all around
you all the time. It’s now time to notice it and see how it was created.
Look around you. See the light
on people’s faces as you go through your daily routine. Look at faces
wherever you are. Notice that when faces look particularly good you’re
probably experiencing natural lighting that has many of the same properties
that I’ll be describing.
In particular, when you’re
riding in a car (not driving) look at the other person. See how the window
light on their face is creating just about perfect lighting situations
all the time. That’s because the top is covered and you have light coming
from the front and side windows.
You’re going to be amazed at
many of the opportunities for great natural lighting that you’ve been
missing. And to top it all off, now with digital cameras allowing you
to change your ISO for each individual picture, you can take advantage
of many of these opportunities with no problem at all.
Now, it’s just up to you. Are
you going to be satisfied with the lighting that you’ve possibly accepted
before for many of your photographs, or are you going to go for lighting
that does the best job that you can possibly achieve? Yes, that’s a challenge!
Of course, you can still learn
more about all of this at: www.zuga.net,
mine and Gary Bernstein’s web site.
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© 2001, Monte Zucker, All Rights Reserved
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Visual Impact
Let’s take a look at this sunset picture for starters.
Lots and lots of pictures
are taken daily of sunsets all over the world.
Some work. Most don’t. Have
you ever stopped to figure out why some are better than others? It’s
not always just the sunset itself. It takes more than a pretty sky to
make a great photograph. It takes a lot of visual impact and a center
of interest. This sunset picture has both.
The visual impact here is
a combination of both the vivid colors and the sun’s rays. The rays
of the sun bring your eye to the lower right corner of the photograph
and hold you there. That’s important. Instead of wandering throughout
the picture, your eye continually goes back to where the light comes
out from behind the dark clouds.
What also makes this picture
come alive is the fact that the light is coming toward your point of
view. The clouds are backlit and sidelit. Even the clouds all the way
at the top of the photograph are backlit.
When something to which you
want the viewer’s eyes drawn is backlit and/or sidelit, the photograph
has depth and dimension. Even on the flat surface of the picture, you
have a three-dimensional feeling that isn’t there when the light comes
from the viewpoint of the camera (flat, frontal lighting).
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Direction Of Light
Let’s now look at this silhouette of the couple walking with their dog.
Notice a similarity between this image and the preceding one?
Once again the light is coming
from behind, toward the lens. The mountains, the water, the figures, and
the trees are all backlit. Had the picture been taken with the sun high
in the sky, the picture would have been very ordinary. With the backlighting,
however, your eye is drawn to the three figures walking in unison on the
water’s edge. The angle of the light on the scene is what makes the people
jump out at you. The way the dark figures stand out plainly against the
lighter background of the water makes your eye lock in on them.
So, were beginning to see a
pattern already. Light coming around from behind and to the side of the
subject seems to create the most dimensional photogarphs. When the light
also draws your attention to the primary subject of the picture it’s doing
what it’s suppose to be doing. Using the light to make the subject of
your photograph the center of interest and to make it three dimensional
is using the light to best advantage.
Now we just have to see how
we can either find light that will do those things, or we need to be able
to work with the available light and adapt it to fill our needs.
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High Key Outdoor Portraits
High key lighting outdoors can be accomplished very easily with simple
tools and a little know-how. The next portrait was created by placing
a #1707 Westcott Illuminator/Diffusor panel behind the model. It’s a 4/6
translucent panel that softens direct sunlight to beautiful, directional
diffused light.
Notice how the late afternoon
sun is going directly though the panel and how I have postitioned the
bride so that the light highlights the left side of her face and created
a beautiful specular highlight down the length of her nose.
I used a #1305 Westcott Silver/Black
Illuminator/Reflector in front of her to pick up some additional light,
postitioning it as if it were my main light source.
Many people think that high
key lighting is very flat lighting. Not at all. We still need three-dimentional
lighting on the subject’s face. It’s simple a matter of keeping the range
of tones fairly small - all in the lighter to medium range. No deep shadows.
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Keep Your Lights Out
Of The Picture
When you use studio lights to light your subjects, you usually do everything
possible to keep the lights, themselves, from showing in the picture,
don’t you? So why, then, do photographers almost always include the window
in window light portraits? Unless you want the subject to be constantly
looking out of a window, doesn’t it make more sense to use the window
as just the source of light and to crop it out of the photograph?
You certainly don’t miss the
window in that picture, do you? Many photographers might include the window
becuase they feel as if they have to pose their subjects so close to the
light source that they have no alternative but to include it.
Notice here in this picture
how far the bride has been posed from the window. With her in that position
I was able to easily compose the photograph to include as much of the
surroundings as I wanted. Do you miss the window not being in the photograph?
I don’t think so.
While you’re looking at the
picture, notice how my reflector was positioned. What I did was to light
only the left side of her face with the window light. When I postion the
reflector as if it were the main light. Instead of having it on the shadowed
side, it’s actually on the highlighted side of her face. With the reflector
turned toward the window I was able to pick up the light. Then I simply
angled the reflector back toward her just enough ti bounce the light onto
the right side of her face.
Finally, see how I’ve turned
her body away from the light source and then turned her head back to the
window. By crossing the light over her body, giving us a lot more detail
than had I turned her body toward the window.
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Use Existing Light
Often times, great lighting exists right in front of our eyes, but many
photographers don’t know how to take advantage of it. Take a look at this
family group portrait, for instance. It was created late in the afternoon.
I knew that when photographing people of color you need to have the light
cross over their faces to create highlights and shadows. It was a simple
matter, then, to position them so that the flow of the setting sun would
cross them at a 90 degree angle.
By being aware that the subjects
needed to be lit in this manner, I was able to get beautiful skin tones
with little or no effort at all. Knowledge is power.
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So, What About Studio
Lighting?
Funny you should ask! It’s the same only easier. When you’re working
with daylight and/or window light you have a ton of variables. The lighting
changes every minute. You have to find a suitable location where and
when you can control the light.
On the other hand, when you’re
working indoors with your own lights you have total control. No matter
where you are and no matter when you’re working, as long as you carry
your lights with you, you always know exactly what to expect and how
to handle it all.
In this case I’ve positioned
two main lights exactly as I arranged the lighting in the previous portrait.
I’m actually using two lights, both of equal intensity, to create the
lighting on her face. The first light is at almost a 90° angle to the
front of her face. Actually, it’s positioned the same as if I were lighting
her profile. The second light is placed for my regular facial lighting
pattern.
My next two lights are on
her hair (also, the same f/stop as her face) and the fourth on the background,
lighting the background a little brighter on the highlighted side of
her face and a little darker on the back side of her head.
These four lights are actually
coming out of one power pack, a Photogenic 800 WS Photomaster (PM08).
I like using this lighting system better than anything else because
the lights are all powered from the single pack that rests on the floor.
The light heads, themselves, are small and lightweight, allowing me
to place two of them into Westcott’s Mini Apollos. Nothing could be
easier or better.
Behind my camera I’m using
a fill light bouncing into an umbrella. That light measures two f/stops
under the main light at her face. The fill light could be just about
anything, but I prefer to use another Photogenic light. That way, I
have a back up, just in case anything should happen to my other lights
in traveling.
Regardless of what you’re
photographing, good lighting is pretty much the same in every case.
When the light comes toward your subjects at an angle, rather than directly
from the front, you’re going to achieve much more of a three-dimensional
effect.
As a result, the impact of
your photographs will be much, much greater.
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