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The Digital Portrait Quality, Speed, And Convenience
By Steve Bedell April, 2002
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I have
a 16x20" print of this photo in my studio and it's beautiful.
This was shot using just soft but directional daylight.
(Model: Ashley Drew.)
Photos ©
2001, Steve Bedell, All Rights Reserved
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A few short years ago, many
writers and photographers, myself included, were of the opinion that in
a few short years film would be history, with the exception of a few "niche"
areas of photography, like, say, infrared. Now that I've been shooting
digitally for well over a year with my Fujifilm S-1 Professional, I can
tell you that I still shoot both film and digital, and expect that I will
for some time now.
The short answer is that there
are times when one is the more logical choice. I usually take at least
three trips per year. For my fun vacation photos I like to use film. My
final objective is to get a set of prints to show friends and relatives,
and it's frankly a lot less hassle to just use a point-and-shoot camera
with a zoom lens and built-in flash. It fits in my pocket and gives me
great quality. I've been using a Nikon One Touch Zoom 90 that even has
a macro feature that I picked up for $100. Cost and convenience wise,
it's the best.
However, if I am going on an
assignment things are different. Knowing I'd be taking hundreds or thousands
of photos and using only a handful, digital would make more sense. You
see where I'm going here? Define your objective, and the answer of which
medium to shoot will actually be quite simple.
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This studio shot of Michelle
Olivia was taken using my standard "nailed down" lighting
system so that my exposure never changes and I can work
very quickly. I don't even use a tripod. I just shoot quickly
and concentrate on expression.
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This brings us to the case
at hand--the individual portrait. (Group portraits raise other concerns
which I won't address here.) Follow my reasoning here and see if it makes
sense to you.
Seniors On Digital
I shot all 200 or so of my high school senior sessions this year with
my Fuji digital camera. For the most part, it went great. Since most of
my clients are girls (they care more to seek out quality photography),
we'll talk about them. I've been shooting seniors for about 20 years and
I've learned one very important fact--you cannot have too much variety.
Digital allows me to shoot as much as I like and not be concerned with
film and proofing costs. In past years, I'd shoot about 24 shots in four
outfits, in the studio and outside. Now, I shoot 75-100 shots in the same
amount of time. Is this a marketing advantage? You bet. The girls flip
when they see the variety I give them--and all for the same price as last
year! Advantage, digital.
Now a typical senior in past
years would order a folio of eight poses along with their package order
with maybe four or five poses. We now have people ordering two folios,
eight poses. One person ordered an album with 50 5x7s! Do we like that?
Yes, we do. Could I do this with film? No.
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This shot of Shauna Randall
was taken using daylight and a gold reflector to add warmth.
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Digital Presentation
Presentation was a big concern for me. I shoot all day during season while
my wife does all the sales and client contacts. Neither of us has the
time to sit at a monitor with the client and look at 100 photos! Nothing
else would get done. So here's the solution we devised.
I use an IBM Microdrive or
two 128MB cards for storage during a session. I download the files into
my main computer immediately after the session and then burn a CD. This
takes about 10 minutes. I later edit the files and print 15 of them on
an 8x11 sheet of paper on my Olympus dye sublimation printer. The client
picks them up the next day, pays a deposit, and makes an appointment to
order. The high quality dye sub photos are big enough to see but too small
to copy. This method, along with a minimum order policy, has worked very
well for us this year. Now let's get back to the technical stuff for those
of you who may make a living at this business.
Quality Results
Let's talk about quality. By doing the "math," my camera should be good
for prints up to 11x14" at 300dpi. But I deal with results. The truth
is, many pro labs have interpolation software for printing your digital
files. I have made a couple of 20x24" prints from this camera, and many
16x20" prints, and they look fabulous. Done deal. Is there a "but"? Yes
there is. You'd better shoot it right. By that, I mean your exposure had
better be perfect and you have to be very careful about both highlight
and shadow detail.
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Want black and white? Sure
you can change it after, but I've found that by shooting
some I know will look good, it helps my client. They can't
previsualize what it will look like, and they buy them.
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To make sure my exposure is
perfect, I have "nailed" down my studio lights so that my exposure is
always the same--in my case, f/13. Outside, I prefer using my trusty incident
meter under my subject's chin rather than the in-camera meter. I'm not
good at judging the exposures on the LCD screen and I find it's much faster
if I'm not constantly stopping to look at the shot--it slows down the
"flow" and then my client wants to look at them also. So I usually just
look at the first shot from each different location (inside/outside) just
to make sure I've set everything back the way it should be. Then I just
shoot rapidly with my "unlimited film supply." It works for me.
I did have to modify my shooting
style somewhat for my outdoor photography. I would love to place my subject
in an area where she was strongly backlit and just blow out the highlight
details in the hair and background. Do this with digital and you'll have
some very unhappy clients. I find that digital just cannot capture as
full a range from shadow to highlight area as film can, so you must compress
the range of your scene by either adding flash or moving. I move.
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I like popping bright colors
against dark backgrounds, as in this shot of Kathryn Foss.
I look for natural reflectors, as in a light wall reflecting
sunlight back on my subject in this portrait.
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My style has always been very
natural and I rarely use flash in my outdoor portraits, so I choose areas
where I do not have deep shadows and am very careful about bright highlights,
especially in the background. I shoot everything as if Photoshop didn't
exist. Can things be fixed after the fact? Sure. Do I want to do it or
pay someone to do it? No. Get it right the first time. Digital shooting
should make you a better and more aware photographer, not a sloppier one.
I couldn't fix it in the old "film days," so why should I now?
If you're not shooting digital
portraits yet, get out there and do it. A 3-megapixel camera and a good
lab will put you in business.
All photos taken with a Fujifilm
S-1 Professional camera, Tamron 28-105mm f/2.8 lens. E-mail me at steve@stevebedell.com
and I'll send you the ideal camera settings to use with your Fuji and
Canon cameras.
Digital Portraits
PROS: Unlimited "film," instant feedback, quick turnaround, quality
to 16x20".
CONS: Critical exposure, limited scene brightness range, "moiré"
lines in some fabrics.
VERDICT: I'm convinced, and I'm expanding digital shooting to other
subjects.
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