Lesson Of The Month Shooting Your Own Family Portrait
Ben Clay/Web Photo School, September, 2003

If you’re like most
photographers, you probably prefer to spend most of your time behind
the camera rather than in front of it. I am no exception. Inevitably,
however, there are times when smiling for the camera is unavoidable.
For instance, my wife and I recently had our first child, and ever since,
our family and friends have been clamoring for a family portrait. Now
you do have the option of paying someone else to take your family portrait,
but again, if you’re like most photographers, you’ll probably
opt to do it yourself.
Now here is where the real challenge presents itself. If you’ve
ever tried to divert an infant from feeding, sleeping, or crying for
a moment so that you can get him or her to look into the lens of a camera
for more than a nanosecond, you know what you’re up against when
it comes to shooting your own family portrait.
As difficult as it may seem, however, there are some modern day photography
and lighting techniques that will make your job as photographer, subject,
and even parent, a whole lot easier during your much-anticipated portrait
session.
Make The Time
The first thing I would recommend is to schedule plenty of time for
your family portrait. It can be challenging simply getting everyone
to your set, and the last thing you want is to be anxious about how
much time the whole ordeal is taking. If you are rushing around, it
will most likely affect the rest of your group. Relax, take your time,
and try not to force the shot.
In order to prevent others from getting restless, it is important to
prepare your set as much as you can before you even get them in the
room. Ideally, you will want to have everything in place so that once
the rest of your group is on the set, you can start taking pictures
right away.
Background Considerations
In planning for this shot, I first thought about what kind of background
I wanted to use. After considering an area of the living room, a colored
wall, and some locations outside, I finally decided on standing in front
of a quilt that a friend of ours made for us as a wedding gift. Since
I didn’t know exactly where I needed to have it positioned, I
decided to clamp it to a Photoflex Lite Disc Holder and LiteStand so
that I could easily move it side to side or up or down at the last minute.
I then positioned it against the back wall of my office, where I have
a section cleared for shooting space. This room isn’t very big
(12x12 ft with an 8-foot ceiling), but the space is more than adequate
for many of
my photo-shoot needs. The entire set ultimately took up less than 8x6
ft, which goes to show you can set up a shooting space just about anywhere
(#1).
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Next came the decision on what
type of lighting to use. I wanted to keep the lighting simple and natural
looking, but mostly I wanted to make sure that our son, Aidan, would be
okay with the lights. Had I decided to use a flash system, he (as with
most children) would most likely have been overwhelmed with the strong
bursts of light, causing the photo shoot to end abruptly. Instead, I decided
to use a Photoflex Medium Starlite Kit mainly because it is a continuous
light source—no flashes to contend with.
I positioned the light about 6 ft away from the background, raised the
softbox up about 7 ft and angled it down 45Þ and facing slightly
to the right. I wanted the light to be soft, but for it to have a slight
sense of direction from left to right (#2).
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I set an Olympus E-20N digital
camera on a tripod set to eye level and filled the frame with the quilted
background. I then set the exposure and focus modes to manual, set the
ISO to its lowest setting (80), set the resolution to TIFF, and finally
created a custom white balance setting to match the color temperature
of the Starlite Kit (3200K). Since I wanted the background to be slightly
out of focus, I set the aperture to f/2.0 to create a limited depth of
field and set the shutter speed to 1/80 sec to compensate for exposure.
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Once everything was set, I
asked my wife, Heather, to bring in Aidan so that they could both stand
in for a test shot. I had Heather stand about a foot and a half from the
face of the softbox so that when she held Aidan in the crook of her arm,
they were both in the frame. Since he was a little sleepy, I just took
a couple of test shots and then Heather carried him back to his crib so
that he could get back to important business: sleep (#3 & #4).
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I checked the results in the
camera and was happy with the positioning, lighting, and exposure. Before
they left, I noted where Heather was standing and marked the spot on the
floor with black masking tape. For the next shot, I wanted to have all
three of us be in the frame, and since I wouldn’t be looking through
the camera, I wanted to make sure that everyone would be in focus. To
double-check the focus point, I placed a LiteStand over the “X”
and raised it to eye level (#5).
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Next, I set the camera so that
I could release the shutter with the remote control unit (included with
the camera). To set the E-20N to remote capture, first press and hold
down the Drive button and turn the Sub dial until the remote control icon
appears in the control panel. This may work in similar fashion with your
camera, but check your instruction book for details. When you want to
take a picture, point the remote at the front of the camera and you will
see a red light below the shutter button start to blink red. The shutter
will then release after 2 seconds (#6).
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I was all set to take our portrait
remotely. Now all we needed was a small window of opportunity with the
little one. And so, after his nap, a feeding, and a diaper change, Aidan
was ready for pictures. We brought him in, stood over the “X”
on the floor, and I took several shots of us looking into the camera.
And even though Aidan never once looked into the lens of the camera, he
was captivated by the continuous, warm light of the softbox just above
the camera. Here is our favorite take of the bunch (#7).
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Afterward, I opened the image
up in Adobe Photoshop and applied a traditional “burning”
technique to the image. I’m particularly taken with portraits where
the edges of the frame have been darkened, or “burned in,”
as it often helps to bring the subjects forward from the background. It
can also help to give the shot a little more dimension. Using a soft-edged
brush, I painted over the perimeter of the frame with the Burn tool set
to the Midtones range at 20 percent until the effect was where I wanted
it (#8).
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Of course, later in the afternoon,
while Heather was out running an errand, Aidan awoke from another nap
and was particularly wide-eyed and alert. Since the set was still up,
I slowly picked him up and brought him back into the shooting space. I
powered up the camera, grabbed the remote unit and discreetly took a few
more shots(#9).
Okay, now I can go back to spending time behind the camera!
If you would like to continue
your digital step by step education lessons on editing, printing, and
e-mailing your photos it will be on the private section of the Web Photo
School. To enroll for WPS just go to www.shutterbug.net and click on WPS
Free Lessons.
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