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Epson’s Stylus Pro 4800; Monochrome Digital Printing Has Arrived:
The advanced black and white settings are what intrigued us most; this is
accessed via Print Settings. This interested us because this is where Epson
asks us to give up our normal “No Color Adjustment” workflow and
surrender ourselves to their driver. After you choose the paper note the “Color”
menu; click on it to drop down “Advanced B&W Photo” option.
Then click on “Advanced Settings” and choose either 1440 or 2880dpi,
the latter being finer and slower. Most of what we did was in the 1440dpi setting,
and we were hard-pressed to see a great difference between the two, but it’s
nice to know it’s there. Click “high speed” off.
Now, each of us has our favorite look for different prints, but I can assure
you that these chemical/silver analogies are very close to results. We were
very pleased with this set of options, and they produced the best black and
white prints we have ever seen from an Epson printer—no bronzing, and,
look ma, no metamerism! Prints done Cool stayed cool, unlike prints from the
now discontinued Epson 2200P and especially the 2000P, which often turned a
sickly green overnight. Warm prints had good depth and Sepia, not our favorite
effect, had a warm, golden glow. Our only criticism was that the Cool settings
seemed to kick up print contrast as well, sort of like a sharpening effect,
but you can mess with Gamma either in image setup in Photoshop or in the driver
software to counter this.
The prototype image in the Advanced Black and White mode setup box does have
a fairly good range of densities from which to judge the effect of your color
cast choices, but it’s just too loosey-goosey for us. Note that tweaking
is also available from the Dark or Darker options in this window in “Tone”
and that you can lower contrast for the Cool setting using the Contrast slider
as well. One more control worthy of note is the Highlight Point Shift, which
to our mind is like dropping the Output setting in Levels, and is used to suppress
highlights. This should be used discretely, but we often drop Output to 244
in Levels to control “hot” highlights, particularly when bright
clouds are part of the image. But be careful not to suppress highlights too
much, as this can yield a flat look to prints. Mac and Windows settings are
similar, though the screen will be different.
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