Then, when I
have made all the adjustments that are necessary in contrast and density
(and color if it is a color negative), I scale up the settings to the
final print size that I want.
A density meter makes it very easy to scale up the settings without
having to do further trial and error testing. In fact, by using a density
meter, I can scale up the test settings to several different print sizes--all
without the need for further testing.
Black And White Printing. When printing black and
white negatives, the use of the density meter is pretty straightforward.
After you have completed your trial and error testing, place the meter’s
sensor in a smooth-toned area of the image and turn the meter’s
dial until the little lights indicate that you have programmed the meter.
Then, raise the enlarger head to the desired magnification and re-focus
the enlarger. Next, place the meter sensor back in the same area of
the image where you were before and this time, begin to slowly open
the enlarger’s lens aperture until the little lights on the density
meter indicate that the brightness is now the same as it was before.
You need to understand that a density meter does not measure contrast--at
least not directly. If you want to measure the contrast range of a negative,
you need to take a reading in the thinnest portion and the densest portion
of the negative. Those two readings establish a ratio which can then
be related to a contrast grade. Large ratios indicate high contrast;
small ratios indicate low contrast. I’ve never been very successful
at doing this. The trick to it is where you take the two readings. You
want to take the highlight reading in an area of the print where there
is just barely some tone value. That is very hard to determine when
looking at the projected image on the easel.
With a little experience you will be able to create several programs
in the density meter. I have programmed mine for a typical skin tone,
and for D-max. Using the programs saves me a lot of trial and error
testing since the density meter will tell me how to set the lens aperture
before I even make the first test print, regardless of the magnification
and/or the density of the negative. I use skin tones because their density
level is more constant from one picture to the next than other things
such as the sky, grass, trees, etc. Of course, there are all the variations
of skin tones such as shadows and highlights as well as different density
levels resulting from makeup, suntanning, and ethnic and gender differences.
Of course, the density meter is not foolproof, so it is usually necessary
to do a little trial and error testing. But, using the meter sure helps
to reduce the amount of testing necessary.